In our early twenties, my husband and I embarked on an unforgettable trip to London and Amsterdam. It was our first time traveling internationally together, offering us a glimpse into what future adventures abroad could hold. We began in London before taking a train to Amsterdam for the final three nights of our journey. I hadn’t expected to fall so deeply in love with the city, but from the moment we arrived, I was captivated. The beauty of the canals, the charm of the narrow streets, and the vibrant blend of culture, food, and history created an atmosphere unlike any other I had experienced.

After that trip, Amsterdam never left my mind. By our mid-twenties, we were seriously researching what it would take to own property and gain dual citizenship there. At the time, our youngest wasn’t in school yet, our careers hadn’t reached full throttle, and we weren’t sure if we’d have more children. We even entertained the idea of splitting our time between the U.S. and the Netherlands, traveling back for work events and family visits in our RV. Of course, life had other plans. Things changed quickly and dramatically but the dream of owning a home in Amsterdam never faded. To this day, we hold onto the belief that it will become a reality, and hopefully at some point in the next decade.

In the summer of 2020, we had planned a month-long stay in Amsterdam with our kids, even arranging to fly our dog (we only had one at the time) over with us. But then, the world shut down. Our flights were canceled, and though we rescheduled for the following summer, the timing still wasn’t quite right for such a meaningful trip. Finally, in 2022, we made it happen and it was everything we had envisioned. Our goal was to experience the city as locals and determine whether we still saw ourselves living there one day. The answer was a resounding yes. To this day, that trip remains the most special one we’ve taken as a family, solidifying Amsterdam’s place in our hearts and in our future.

Where to Stay  

Our work has always provided a great deal of flexibility, but at the time, we still carried a heavy load of responsibilities with our business. We didn’t plan to take time off, opting instead to work remotely, navigating the time difference, shortening our workdays slightly, but remaining available for meetings with our team. Because of this, we knew we needed a comfortable space with a dedicated work area, as well as enough room for the kids to stay entertained while we were busy.

Initially, we booked an apartment through TripAdvisor. Since we had originally planned to bring our dog, we needed a pet-friendly rental near a dog park. The management company had been accommodating, allowing us to reschedule our trip once. However, when we had to postpone again, they informed me of a massive price increase. They cited renovations and rising costs, which was understandable, but it pushed the price well beyond our intended budget. Since we were no longer bringing our dog, I decided to start fresh and search for other options.

We knew we still wanted to rent an apartment rather than stay in a hotel to get a better feel for daily life in Amsterdam. After extensive research, I found what seemed to be the perfect place on VRBO in the Oud-Zuid neighborhood. The owner confirmed a monthly rate within our budget, and I was thrilled. I booked the apartment more than a year in advance, feeling confident in our plans. But less than two months before our flights, I received an unexpected notice. The owner had canceled our reservation, claiming the apartment was no longer available and that they hadn’t agreed to the booking. I had all the documentation of our conversations about rates, the booking process, and the official confirmation, but none of it made a difference. Just like that, I was left scrambling for a new place to stay.

Since then, I’ve been extremely skeptical of using VRBO or Airbnb for major trips. I’ve heard too many horror stories of last-minute cancellations, and for something as significant as a month-long stay abroad, I’d rather take a more secure route.

Ultimately, my research led me to short-term apartment rental sites, and I ended up booking through ServicedApartments.nl (now Yosaa). They had excellent reviews and provided clear, upfront details about what was included- such as weekly housekeeping with fresh linens, trash pickup, and a list of apartment amenities. Their website made it easy to search by date and location, allowing me to quickly narrow down options near our preferred area. They had plenty of two-bedroom apartments available, including ones with balconies or small yards.

I was incredibly relieved to find this site on such short notice, and they made the booking process seamless. The apartment itself was warm and inviting, with plenty of space for the four of us. It had a kitchen, a cozy living room, and large windows that offered beautiful views of the city.

The location was in the Oud-Oost neighborhood and it turned out to be absolutely perfect for our family. We were right next to bus, tram, and metro stations, making it incredibly easy to get around. There was also an Albert Heijn market just a block away, which made grabbing groceries and essentials a breeze. And with plenty of restaurants, bakeries, and coffee shops within walking distance, we were never short on great food and coffee.

How to get Around

Arriving in Amsterdam to either the Airport or Train station is a straightforward process if you plan ahead. Additionally, Amsterdam really knows that they’re doing when it comes to public transportation, making it easy to navigate your daily needs. This can be said about a lot of major cities in foreign countries, but the GVB public transport company in Amsterdam makes it a breeze.

I had done a fair amount of research on this before we arrived. Initially, I was hopeful that we could purchase a monthly pass as we knew we would be using the transportation frequently, likely multiple times per day. However, I soon discovered this wasn’t a feasible option for tourists as you had to have a “personal” OV-chipkaart (you must have a Dutch bank account to apply for one). While tourists can purchase a disposable or an “anonymous” OV-chipkaart, you can not purchase monthly subscriptions or receive discounts with them.

The first time we used public transportation in Amsterdam, we visited a kiosk in the metro station, where we were able to purchase our passes quickly and easily. These passes are valid on all GVB-operated metros, buses, trams, and ferries. GVB offers a range of ticket options, including 1-hour, 1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 4-day, and 5-day passes. Since it’s more cost-effective, we typically opted for the multi-day options.

While it’s not necessary to have the GVB app beforehand, it does make the ticketing process much more convenient. You can buy tickets directly through the app and use a QR code to check in and out of the transit system, eliminating the need for a physical ticket.

When finding the best routes to get to where we were going, we relied heavily on Google Maps, which provided real-time public transit routes and tram or bus numbers. However, the GVB app now includes a built-in trip planner, making it even simpler to find the best routes around the city.

Although we used public transportation frequently, we also loved exploring Amsterdam on foot. Walking through the city’s charming streets became one of our favorite daily activities. For reference, our apartment was about a 20-minute walk to Rembrandt Square- just the right distance for a pleasant stroll through the city’s vibrant neighborhoods.

Things to Do

There is an abundance of things to do in Amsterdam so below are just a few highlights from our time there. We spent a lot of our time just walking around the city exploring nearby parks like Oosterpark, finding restaurants off the beaten path and just taking in the scenery. Contrary to what most would do upon visiting the city, we did not rent or utilize bike transportation while there!

Take a Canal Cruise

One experience we knew we wanted include this time around was a canal cruise. We used Amsterdam Jewel Cruises and it turned out to be a highlight of our trip. Since it would just be the two of us, we opted for the standard cruise vs. a private cruise.

We arrived at the check-in point via public transportation and, since we were early, grabbed a quick drink at a nearby bar before boarding. Once checked in, we were able to choose our table- though, honestly, every seat offered fantastic views of the water and the streets of Amsterdam.

The cruise lasted just under three hours, and everything about it exceeded our expectations. The service was excellent and the food was high-quality, making for a truly memorable evening. If you’re looking for a special way to experience the city from the water, we’d highly recommend it!

Take a Side Trip

Our main goal during our month-long stay in Amsterdam was to live like locals and truly immerse ourselves in what daily life there would feel like. We intended to spend most of our time in the city, but with so many beautiful destinations just a short train ride away, it was hard to resist the temptation to explore beyond Amsterdam.

We decided to take a three-day trip during our stay and ultimately chose Paris, as it was only about 3.5 hours away by train. For accommodations, we stayed at La Demeure Montaigne, a boutique-style hotel that was both stylish and spacious enough for the boys. Its location was about a 20-minute walk from the Eiffel Tower, so it was perfect for sightseeing and dining, with plenty of restaurants nearby offering incredible views of the tower. One of the highlights of our trip was securing last-minute tickets to go up to the top of the Eiffel Tower. The experience was absolutely worth it, creating a lasting memory for all of us.

There are so many amazing destinations within easy reach of Amsterdam, and we’re excited to explore more on our next visit. Cities like Rotterdam, Delft, and Brussels are all fantastic options, and with London just a four-hour train ride away, the possibilities for quick getaways are endless!

Take a Tour

The Netherlands is famous for its windmills, and given the time we had in the area, we didn’t want to miss the opportunity to see them up close. After a quick search on GetYourGuide, we settled on the Zaanse Schans Tour with Cheese Tasting & Clog Factory, which offered a great mix of cultural history and Dutch traditions.

The tour lasted about 3.5 hours (though full-day options are available) and was easily accessible via a free shuttle ferry. After a brief introduction and instructions on when and where to meet back at the bus, we were free to explore the grounds at our own pace. The area was full of fantastic photo opportunities, and one of the highlights was going inside a historic windmill and climbing to the top for breathtaking views. We also got to see how traditional wooden clogs and Dutch cheese are made, with plenty of opportunities to purchase local products and souvenirs. For what we were looking for, this tour was perfect. It provided just the right amount of time to explore and learn about the aspects we were most interested in.

Other must-see attractions in Amsterdam include the Heineken Experience, the Anne Frank House, and the Van Gogh Museum. Since these are all within the city and don’t require extensive travel, we prefer to visit them on our own rather than through guided tours. This allows us to arrive at our convenience, focus on what interests us most, and move at our own pace.

NEMO Museum

We spent nearly a full day at the NEMO Science Museum. It’s a must-visit destination for curious minds of all ages, offering a hands-on, interactive experience that makes science fun and accessible. Housed in a striking, ship-shaped building designed by renowned architect Renzo Piano, NEMO has five floors of engaging exhibits covering topics like physics, chemistry, engineering, and space exploration. To top it off, the rooftop terrace provides stunning panoramic views of Amsterdam. NEMO is a perfect blend of education, entertainment, and sightseeing.

Babysitting Services

During our trip, we used High End Nanny Service for babysitting on three occasions. From our previous experience in Amsterdam, I knew there would be some fine dining and activities we’d want to enjoy without the boys. I had already researched Michelin-starred restaurants and local concerts, so there were a few nights where we planned to go out on our own.

After some research, I came across High End Nanny Service, which is highly reputable and provides care for guests at local hotels. I reached out to see if they could extend their services to apartments, and they were more than happy to accommodate. We filled out the necessary forms in advance, and everything was set up ahead of time.

We had two different babysitters over the three occasions, and both were pleasant and professional. I had submitted the dates well in advance, and they assigned babysitters to us before we arrived. Each sitter sent photos and an overview of their background, so we knew exactly who would be taking care of the boys. They arrived early to introduce themselves and meet the kids, ensuring a smooth transition.

While we were out, they kept us updated with photos and messages, so we knew everything was going well. They even took the boys to nearby parks and asked for our approval to treat them to ice cream, which was a sweet touch.

Emergency Care

I hope you never have to deal with medical emergencies while traveling, but if you do, it’s reassuring to be in a place like Amsterdam with a top-notch healthcare system. My family is generally healthy, so we hadn’t worried much about travel insurance on previous international trips. At home, I have a PPO plan for myself and the kids, while my husband uses the VA system.

About two weeks into our trip, my husband fell ill with what we initially thought was a bad case of food poisoning. We had just eaten raw sushi in a very hot restaurant, and we assumed the tuna might have been spoiled. After about 24 hours, he felt better, so we booked a windmill and cheese tour. But after leaving one of the presentation buildings, he mentioned his vision was blurry and the lighting seemed off. He didn’t think it was urgent, so he tried to sleep it off after the tour. Unfortunately, he woke up feeling a million times worse. His vision had almost completely gone, his eyes felt like they might explode, and he was vomiting non-stop. At that point, we knew we had to go to the hospital, so I found an ER just a few blocks away.

However, the ER didn’t have the resources he needed, and since we didn’t have local insurance, they referred us to a tourist clinic, which we had to reach by bus. To make a long story shorter, we spent hours in uncertainty before being referred to a hospital close to our apartment. There, the eye clinic tested him and found his eye pressure was nearly three times the normal level. They were close to performing an emergency operation but decided instead to rush him immediately to Amsterdam’s main university hospital.

At the hospital, they discovered he was also on the verge of kidney failure. He spent the next seven days in the hospital, with doctors studying him because they’d never encountered anything like it (a rare eye condition + nephrotic syndrome in someone with no preexisting issues). They never could figure out what caused his symptoms, but just as he was scheduled for a kidney biopsy, his levels suddenly returned to normal, and we were discharged that same day. It felt like a miracle, though it remains one of the most bizarre situations we’ve ever experienced. We are forever grateful to the incredible doctors and nurses at Amsterdam UMC, who we’re confident saved his life. They also ensured we had follow-up care arranged during our stay and guidance on what to do when we returned home.

We were extremely worried about what medical bills we’d face, especially without travel insurance. We knew the VA would likely not reimburse us for something like this, and given the cost of healthcare in the U.S., we braced ourselves for a massive bill. To our surprise, the cost for seven days of treatment including tests, medications, X-rays, and CT scans at their facility was just $8,000. This was a shock, especially since we know that in the U.S., the same care could easily have totaled over $100,000.

Overall, we found Amsterdam’s medical system to be incredibly reliable, and the staff (doctors, nurses, and everyone involved) were caring, dedicated, and professional. The fact that the costs were reasonable, especially considering the emergency nature of the situation, was a huge relief. During our time in the hospital, we joked about leaving the country out of fear of the bills (just kidding!), but in all seriousness, we were relieved to be able to enjoy the rest of our trip with more peace of mind.

Where to Eat

One of the things I absolutely love about Amsterdam is its incredible variety of dining options. Whether it’s enjoying a fine dinner or stopping by a local gelato shop on a stroll, you’re guaranteed to fall in love with the high quality of food here. What’s even better is the freshness of the ingredients as foods are often cleaner and have fewer preservatives compared to the U.S. While we did cook some meals in our apartment, we ate out for most of our stay, and with so many fantastic options, it’s hard to cover them all. So, I’ll focus on just a few highlights of our dining experiences.

One of our top priorities was trying some Michelin-starred restaurants during the evenings we had a babysitter. The first place we visited was Senses, and it was absolute perfection. Focused on seafood, each dish was a work of art, with flavors that truly impressed us (the wine pairings were spot-on, too).

We also tried Daalder, another Michelin-starred restaurant. I was particularly excited about this one after reading about its great vibe and thoughtful dishes. However, on the night we went, they were dealing with air conditioning issues, so all the tables were moved outside. While the outdoor seating was pleasant, I couldn’t help but feel like we missed out on the full experience inside. Additionally, the dishes took quite a long time to arrive, making the meal drag on for over three hours. I’m not sure if this is typical, but for us, it felt a bit inconvenient. Nevertheless, the food itself was delicious, and it might still be worth checking out if you’re in the area.

Our absolute favorite food in Amsterdam though, are the pancakes. For a quick breakfast or lunch, we would hop on the bus and go to De Carrousel Pannenkoeken Amsterdam. It’s a fun (you are actually dining in an old carousel that is brought back to life), casual spot with a great variety of pancake and waffle options. But the real gem for us is always the Upstairs Pannenkoekenhuis, which is the smallest pancake restaurant in Europe. To get there, you climb a very steep set of stairs to a tiny, cozy room with just a few tables. The pancakes are cooked fresh right by your table, and they’re incredibly delicious and unique. Since the space is so limited, it’s best to make a reservation by phone in advance.

Final Thoughts

It’s difficult to truly capture how perfect this trip was for us, despite the unexpected challenge of Travis spending a week in the hospital. While those were undeniably tough times for our family, they also offered us a unique opportunity. My boys and I got even more familiar with the transportation system and found new ways to explore the city during the hours between visiting the hospital, discovering places we might not have otherwise seen.

Amsterdam, with its charming canals and laid-back atmosphere, solidified its place in our hearts once again. Our extended time there only reinforced my desire to one day own a house or apartment there. That dream is far from fading and I look forward to the day we make it a reality.